Відео

If the injector mounting system is the same, yes.

@@ahmet6144 Anything will work if it correctly closes the gap *AND* remains secure. You will have to be the judge of the quality and suitability of the zip ties.

@@Kingdmctzn The outer seal sits in a groove and the paper gasket is held flush against the engine block and prevented from moving with specific cut outs.

@@fuqui035 So make the hole a little bigger. 👍🏾

No se prueba bloqueando la bomba con el dedo. Sólo estarás adivinando. Se prueba una bomba de vacío correctamente con un probador de vacío.

Gracias!

Haynes Manual 👍🏾

Bonjour. Vous ne m'avez pas indiqué votre modèle de voiture. Les liens suivants devraient néanmoins être utiles. www.google.com/search?q=site:volvoforums.org.uk+resonator&source=lmns&bih=622&biw=339&client=ms-android-samsung-ss&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjGoeS_ke-GAxUBYKQEHc9-D0wQ0pQJKAB6BAgAEA4 www.google.com/search?client=ms-android-samsung-ss&sca_esv=689b2325b95f8dd1&sca_upv=1&q=site:volvoforums.org.uk+resonator&udm=2&fbs=AEQNm0A-5VTqs5rweptgTqb6m-EbfO8uEAKwwfTIiAEOSBKJm6VufTAzfOY3nLuIIKh6isETPkOTjUCD7QEU4-R83OboSOR5yWv29O9XHiqCoRFsfbYs8BeibySPEOwcvvDafsDYW6Scn_FTJBoL7IO2OGmO9ud0SgA3bVcOjFi8GTRE3sDAB8JOALXhW1bqasiKmV-sL5azIgpZWufGB39oUKZnFwtsmA&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjL35a_kO-GAxX-WEEAHSPFAEwQtKgLegQIExAB&biw=339&bih=622&dpr=3.19

Oui désolé xc90 d5 2008 ! Merci pour les liens je vais aller voir

@@flouch78doud31 il n'a pas de quoi 👍🏾

170 thousand views, nearly a 1000 likes..... Who is more likely to be correct? 😊

Well done. If you're renewing inner and outer, cutting through the inner rod thread completely to separate them is possible too if the lock nut is too difficult.

Genuine Volvo control arms are around £350 total for the pair. Aftermarket are from £100 upwards. Dollars are the same give or take. To get to to £900, that's a lot of labour that's been added to the cost so shop around. Total cost for parts and labour would be more in the region of £400-600 but if you have no choice, the cost will be whatever someone else will do.

Hope it goes well and thank you for the comment.

@@sirobb Starter spins. Spend $60 on a replacement before finding your video. Should have just gone with my gut from the start. Next, pulling flywheel cover off. I put penetrating oil on the heads last night. Lots of carbon buildup on them from the plug hole. Hopefully I can rotate it.

Gut feelings are 99% of success so don't beat yourself up over the 1% lack of faith in yourself. Some only achieve 50% correct so you're well in the zone which says you'll progress fine. I'm going to do a distilled video on the No 1 Sales Book How to Win Friends and Influence People. Sounds like you have a mind and attitude that would appreciate the knowledge it contains.

I don't know. Send me a link to your tester.

@@sirobb I'll snap that when I get to the market where I went to purchase some parts.

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Yes. There's a temporary fix video in my list. You can also vacuum test the mount to confirm.

Thanks for the video. Great help

Test the vacuum pump directly. There's a vacuum pump testing video in my list.

​​@@sirobbi tested the turbo control valve for leaking with a smoke detector, is was leaking from there, can that also cause the popping noise? Also checked both mounts and they are new

@@thomasdeklerk5202 I repeat. If you suspect a vacuum leak, use a vacuum tester. You will see the leak immediately. The popping noise is a "fault" if performance, data and testing shows a fault. Do you have performance issue? If all you have is a noise with the oil cap off, why is that a problem for you?

@@sirobb i dont really have a performance issue no, but i want my vacuüm system to be good for when i go to remap it and get more out of the engine and turbo so i want that all to be good. And with that popping noise there still is a leak somewhere. Will try a new valve and if thats not working ill go and have a look at the vacuum pump

@@thomasdeklerk5202 Vacuum testers are so cheap, I'd directly test the pump then the rest of the vacuum system first. Your car though so up to you.

Hello. Can you give me a lot more information please? Are you losing coolant? Is the engine overheating? The cooling system has many, joins, pipes, seals and gaskets.

@@sirobb hi the engin is constantly 90c… it is not losing cookant

The coolant level is going down when I drive…. when I open the coolant tank and the pressure goes down from the pipes. It fills up between Max and min

@@MuBe-um7rq Check the coolant level when the engine is stone cold. It must be at maximum on a cold engine. It does not matter if the coolant level changes with engine running as long as there is no coolant loss and no overheating. From your description, I can't see a problem with your cooling system. I have a cooling system flushing video in my list if you still think you have a problem. Never open a hot cooling system.

@@sirobb why do the pipes get that hard ( the pipes after the thermostat)or is that normal ? Again thank you a lot for your respond.

Google Volvo Vida 2014d

There's no other button in this video. Not sure about other models, sorry.

@@sirobb The button inside by the park break that releases the door lock when you refuel. XC90 T6

@@VauveAnais If that's the main fuel flap release button, you'll still need to use it. This video is just for the hinge on the fuel flap. Separate from the locking mechanism.

@@sirobb Thank you

What is the "wet"? Oil? Diesel? Water?

@@sirobb i would say its either oil or water because i wont smell the typcial diesel smell in cabain neither when the engine in running and iam right above the injector

I also have to say that is has 300.000km and 22 years on the engine. No start problems no uneven idle no nothing. Besides a popping in oil filler cap but i did everything u showed for vaccum leaks. Guess its the pump itsself then.

@@gldkrne1312 Thanks for the extra information. First, your car should contain oil, screenwash, coolant, hydraulic fluids only. There should be no clear water as such in your car anyway so if it is water, it's from an external source (rainwater, splashes up from the road) so no issue. I would tackle this problem like almost every other problem in life from above and below. If it's from above, the most likely is worn pipe or connection from the leak back pipes coming from all 5 injectors leading back to the HP Pump. The leak may not be from directly above number 5 but could be tracking there from the left or right so thoroughly dry everything and maybe use some talcum powder or French chalk in the area which will give away moisture if the source is above. If the injector sealing washer is only slightly breached, you'd be unlikely to see a bubbling up from below as the engine is only idling and fuel pressure is around 5000 psi. Thoroughly dry the area take the car at higher engine speeds therefore raising fuel pressure to 20k+ psi. Now that amount of pressure being introduced into the cylinder could easily be making its way back up the injector if the seal isn't 100%. There can be small amounts of oil in the cylinder forced up from the sump which could be further forced up. With all this said, if engine data and performance is ok, correcting a minor leak may not be worthwhile. Finally, consider all intercooler/boost connections as a leak there can create an oil mist in the vicinity.

@@gldkrne1312 My vacuum pump is leaking too. Bearable and performance is ok so a job for the future.

Glad it helped. The beauty of a lot of these alternators is that the individual components can be changed or cleaned up without wholesale replacement of the alternator. The brush pack/regulator, slip rings, rectifier and pulley can all be replaced for considerably less.

@@sirobb this video seems to show normal RH threads ? ua-cam.com/video/j-RByaWsms4/v-deo.htmlsi=CeD4va0CSKS7QZRl&t=842

I don't know. You can build up jacking height with blocks of wood on the jack saddle or stand the jack on a raised service. Never get under any raised vehicle though unless *you* can be sure of *your* safety.

Sure. What would you like to know?

@@sirobb hi ive tried a couple of places now what say they repair the cem units and they have said they dont have the components for my Volvo v70 which is a 2001 d5 ive tried Volvo diagnostics aswell ive been advised by a mechanic that its the cem at fault as its clicking noises from relays when trying to start it ive replaced new starter all new earth wires new battery had all relays and fuses checked and wires just atca total loss now and dont want to have to part with the car if i can help it many thanks for getting back to me

Volvo diagnostics volvodiagnostic.com/central-electronic-modules/69-early-p2-platform-remanufactured-cem-xc90-v70-s80-xc70.html have a Cloning service so you get a working CEM with the same part number and they transfer your original data onto the "new" CEM You can pick up used CEM on eBay for £20 to £100 depending on timing but the part number match to your exact CEM is essential. They also on occasion have a refurbished CEM in stock so they can clone your details that way. Pricing varies. I cannot recommend the service highly enough. If you look for your own, see the attached photo link. Hope that helps. flic.kr/p/2pSVomW

Yea they do fail, all the time

I used to do this on my Dad’s Maxi when I was a kid and it was having solenoid trouble. Couple of clumps with the rubber handle of a hammer and it would start right up.

The Maxi starter design used to mash the teeth on the flywheel too. Sometimes we would have to put the car in gear and physically rock the car to budge the flywheel to a section with working teeth for the starter to engage. All within a couple of years from brand new. 70s British engineering. 😊

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@@sirobb Thank you. Do you think the procedure applies to the TF-80SD as well?

@@christianbdk503 I have no idea. Sorry.

@@sirobb All good, thanks. I will perform it on the 80SD and report here.

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@@sirobb I've placed an online order for the same brand of seal as used in the video. That description was part of the specification

@@p--n Corteco are superb so just match the part number and the spec will be automatically correct. Less research required.

@@sirobb information from the SKF website - These have either a right-hand twist for shafts that rotate clockwise, or a left-hand twist for shafts that rotate counter-clockwise as seen from the air side

@@p--n I used the Volvo main dealer software for my parts diagram and the part number is the same both sides. That's obviously for my exact car configuration though so yours *may* be different.

How I do it takes a few hours so you probably wouldn't want to pay for that. Most garages will do a drain and fill change which is good enough for about £50. It's an easy cooling system to work on.

If it's actually stripping the threads, yes but I doubt that's happening. Sometimes I need a plumber's wrench to tighten sufficiently to be airtight. Perhaps a little silicone spray on the threads to smooth the way.

Still running fine all these years later. Don't know what you saw but nothing is wrong.

This is a Euro 3 so as long as the class is matched, no further coding required.

@@sirobb so can I take injectors out a 2002 s60 and put them in 2010 xc90 and thank you for reply

@@johnmcguinness7116 Different injectors so not compatible in any way. 2010 is Euro 4 so may need coding. 2010 is a bit new for my speciality.

Any regular *penetrating* fluid. Brands like Plus Gas and WD40 but check it's the penetrating version not just lubricant.